Flamenco at Casa Patas in Madrid, December 1998

Dancer hiking dress with flower in hairDancer stamping, swirling dressReal Flamenco is a compelling combination of classical guitar, jazz improvisation, story-telling in folk song and dance, and tap dancing.  The singing is in a haunting Arabic style, including the use of quarter-tones.  Both the music and the dance alternate between lyrical and percussive. Extremely immediate and passionate.  Like much in Madrid, the shows start at midnight.

When on stage, the dancers appeared to set the tempo, with the musicians following.  At musical high points, the other dancers would often clap extremely quickly and loudly in pairs, alternating claps between them, allowing them to clap out 16th notes -- an amazing effect not achievable by one person alone.

The show we saw built throughout the evening. It opened with a solo guitar. Next, a percussionist came on stage.  He played a form of drum shaped like a wooden box on which he sat.  A second guitar was added.  Only after several emotional, highly responsive instrumental numbers, with solo breaks for the individual instrumentalists, was a single female dancer added to the mix. After a dance number or two by her, a different one took her place, with the other moving offstage.  Next a male dancer performed.   Finally, all three dancers danced together, telling a story, with the lead dynamically moving from one to another, those not leading often clapping together to heighten the excitement of the lead dancer.

Dancer bending backwardsPercussionist and guitaristThe audience would often call out when a dance sequence or musical passage particularly moved them, usually calling "Ale!" (go) -- very familiar if you've ever attended a good live jazz show. Another fun touch was that dancers insisted that each of the musicians take a turn out front dancing, which they did, although some with more than a hint of reluctance and embarrassment. The crowd cheered them on.

People tell me that most of the flamenco in Spain anymore is produced for the tourists and lacks soul.  I'm privileged to say, however, that I had the honor of witnessing a group of artists pour their hearts into their performances, holding nothing back.   Hauntingly beautiful and compelling beyond what words can describe.


The crew at Casa Patas

The crew at Casa Patas.  Left to right: Kevin Jeffay, Lee McFearin, Bill Foote, Trish Jones, Nathalie Caudy, Mike Jones. Thanks to Lee for sharing his photos with the rest of us!


More road trips